
Istanbul, City of Two Worlds
I returned from Istanbul a few months ago, straddling the end of 2024 and the beginning of 2025. I can say I’ve explored it far and wide, though for a megalopolis of 16 million inhabitants, it’s presumptuous to claim to know it well. I had already taken a first look last June, learned to get around easily, and grown comfortable with the people. However, there were still many things to do and see that I haven’t gotten to yet. I plan to return once more between April and May to complete my exploration.
Istanbul is a vibrant, modern city—even in its mindset—contrary to what one might think, given that Turkey is a Muslim-majority country. Here, Islamic religion tends to stay in the background and doesn’t dictate life as it does in more radical countries. Of course, the muezzin still calls to prayer (adhān) five times a day, and with countless mosques and even more minarets, the overlapping calls create an indistinguishable cacophony, at least to the Western ear. Naturally, in some areas like Fatih, you’ll see women fully veiled and men in traditional attire—not necessarily Turkish but from other ethnicities tied to their cultural roots. After all, Turkey is the “promised land” for many from neighboring nations who come here seeking better living conditions without giving up their cultural identity, particularly their shared religion.
But Istanbul is much more than that. It juxtaposes a conservative district like Fatih with the lights and social buzz of Kadıköy, where girls in miniskirts stay out until dawn with friends, sipping tea or coffee.
Istanbul is also a monumental city: mosques, churches, spectacular cisterns, and breathtaking views abound. It’s no coincidence that, like Rome, Istanbul is built on seven hills, which means steep climbs and descents that alternate relentlessly. The world’s second-oldest subway, the Tünel, built in 1875, is essentially an underground funicular connecting Karaköy below with the Galata area above. Balat and Fener are two other neighborhoods worth exploring if you’re in good physical shape.
Then there are the classic attractions: the Basilica Cistern, first and foremost; Hagia Sophia, stunning as always; and the Blue Mosque, though in my opinion, there are more beautiful mosques, even if they’re less famous.
Two additional notes:
For cat lovers, Istanbul is paradise. A state law in 2021 eliminated pet shops selling animals, so cats are everywhere. They’re very friendly and well cared for. In Istanbul, cats aren’t considered strays but free residents of the city, treated on par with any other inhabitant. To a lesser extent, the same applies to dogs.
The second note, this one less pleasant, is about smoking. Keep in mind that the phrase “smoking like a Turk” wasn’t coined by chance—it has a solid basis. Turks smoke as if there’s no tomorrow, always, everywhere, and by everyone: men and women, veiled or not. Keep this in mind when you visit Istanbul.
The following photos tell a little about my time spent in Istanbul.